If they were to make a film based on the life of Dickens, The Duke of
Wellington would provide the perfect set. From the exterior, little has changed
since 1832. The pub is decked out in Wellington memoribilia which is
appreciated by its well heeled regulars.
A few months ago it underwent a makeover, but nothing too drastic…
the welcoming fireplace and the 18th Century fixtures remain. It’s had a
revamp of dark red paint with wooden tables, chandeliers and gilt mirrors.
Upstairs, meanwhile, a dining room has been added by the new owners of The
Dog and Duck in Barnes. It’s a bright room, with linen tableclothes, a fireplace
and framed letters written by the Duke. And there’s a wonderful view of an
ancient domed church which gives the feeling you’re in Rome
or Palermo.
The real revolution in the makeover, however, has happened in the kitchen with
the introduction of Fred Smith, previously of Ransomes Dock and Galvins
Bistro. Already winning rave reviews, including an inclusion in the Michelin
guide, his cooking is sensational.He excels at creating the best of English food
in a light and flavoursome way. Never have I tasted such fresh sweet asparagus.
The beetroot and sorrel soup was delicious, as was the quail with duck
sausage, the freshest peas puy lentils, onions and mint.
The menu is imaginative, too. Steamed mushroom with onion and thyme
pudding in fondatu sauce. Wild Brill with lemon butter sauce, and shrimps,
or lamb with courgette, tomato and roasted baby artichoke and olive sauce,
all incorporate the freshest of seasonal produce and highlight Smith’s
inventiveness in the kitchen.
The desserts are to die for. I had Valrhona chocolate pannacotta with blood
orange caramel. While the rice pudding with plums poached in lemon thyme
syrup was delicious, and the best she had ever eaten, according to my friend.
There’s an excellent selection of reasonably priced wines. We chose the Rioja
and it was perfect, so smooth we thought it was organic.
Fred Smith is a young star in the ascendent. Watch out Gordon Ramsey!
Fred will give you a run for your money before long.